Having a rest in a peacefull town.
After walking down from Pico Orizaba, I took the day off because I had stiffness/sore muscle and I could barely walk. It was mainly due to the walk down since my cuadriceps are not used to working this way. It was such a long time since my muscles ached me this way. Well, and as it is said in my country, the best way to get rid of a sore muscle is to make it work again. So, the day after, I hopped on my bike and off I went.
Changing states one meets different traits
I had to ride through Tehuacan since a friend was waiting for me. They were really humble people but as it is the case, they were so welcoming that my stay over there turned into an unbeatable gift.
This city is known all over Mexico for the “maquiladoras”. It is full of factories where the women spent all day long sewing jeans for 4 USD a day. Jeans later sold for over a 100USD a pair.
Families have to juggle in order to buy fruit in the markets.
Personally, I don´t know what slavery was like 100 years ago, though working for a pittance is what I call slavery.
On the stop to have a bath.
My next stop was Oaxaca city. The capital of the state of Oaxaca, which together with Chiapas, is one of the most ethnic states in all Mexico. You come across all kinds of people, native aborigines who have been living on these lands thousands of years. They just decide to walk down from the highlands and thinking a better life is waiting for them, they commit the mistake of a lifetime.
On the mountains of Oaxaca, a sleeping spot with amazing views.
In just a few days, they realize they are not going to find a job and that while they are in the city, noone is going to help them. They had always had the opportunity to grow something out of the earth, to put something to eat and whenever necessity kicked in, the next door neighbour was readyt o help them.Now that they are in the city,there is no land to grow vegetables, and he/she is an anonymous person among thousands, in a place where no one cares nor knows them.
The life is tough in the city.
I liked this city. It was somehow special and it made me feel well. I stretched my stay a few days, enjoying the little routines I come up with the few times I stop at such places.
What I most enjoy doing, kind of my routine, is having my either black or white coffee at the same cafe, I will entangle in a little chit-chat with the waiter or waitress I bump into daily. I will take a notebook with me where I shall take down whatever crosses my mind and so I will have a most pleasant time.
Pleasures of life.
From there I decided to go to the Pacific coast. The plan was to go towards Puerto Escondido and from there to folow the coast until Salina Cruz.
As it has been happening always in this country I met a couple who almost made me to promise them that I was not going to take that road, because It was common for the travelers to be robed.
Amazing cactus tree.
That is something that made me tired in Mexico. Having in the mind all the time the thought or worry that someone could harm me.
In my way to the coast i met so many people doing the pilgrimage to “Santa Catarina De Juquila”, that I could not hold myself and changing plans, extending one more way my way through the hills, y went to see what atracted to this people.
Joining one of the pilgrim groups.
As always a giant church and a lot of bussineses around it. The best of all was that there were some speakers set around the holy place, and i was able to listen what the father, priest or whatever is named this holy man that was saying so many bullshits. It was long ago that i didn’t hear someone saying so many nonesenses in the name of God.
I have to say that i left the place running without looking back again.
I liked the coast, specially a beach named “playa de rocas blancas”. I rested there for few days eating fish and sleeping in the tent with other Mexicans. No another foreigner. Well educated Mexicans abled to talk about any subject. there were 3 days of peace and tranquility.
It made me well, because few night back something happened that really scared me. No one assalted me, but…
finally nothing happened, but it was a warning remembering me that i should stop before dusk. I didn´t do it intentionally, but i was cycling up and i couldn´t find a place to stop.
Mariano, the ice cream salesman who, having worked in the U.S., he came back to Mexico in order to have a quieter life with less money.
I went through famous places like Cipolite, Masunte… Well prepared places for foreing and local tourism, where when i go inside i relize that i could be in Mexico, Thailand, Tanzania or Spain.
Tortles putting eggs
New borned tortles running to the water.
My parents and my sister were about to come to see me and I came up with the idea of welcoming them at the airport and spending the following fortnight with them while visiting the peninsula of Yucatan’s most interesting places. Beaches, Mayan ruins and cenotes. They were a thing these cenotes!
They are some holes or pits full of fresh water, from which the Mayans got their water and around which, towns were built.
To have a bath in almost total darkness, just lit by the incoming light through the hole on the ground in one of these pristine water cenote is a amazing experience.
I enjoyed them thoroughly and they were gone in a jiffy, and then all of a sudden, the farewell day got to us. although they have come to all the continents I have ridden by and we have told each other goodbye a few times more, I never manage to avoid shedding a tear and one or two always run down my cheeks.
One of the most famous piramyds of theses lands. Chichen-itza.
I had dropped my bicycle in Tehuantepec, in the istmo, and from there I had to ride up some mountain pass, which after the rest, was harder than usual. I was lucky enough to ride into Rafael, a nicaraguan, who was riding along these roads and we rode together for 5 or 6 days. I love meeting special people as this guy, those who have not their life resolved and with all the uncertainty of the world, he takes one simple bicycle and all the equipment he needs and started an adventure that is working so well so far.
Brother, it was a gift to share with you the hurricane-force winds at the “Ventosa”, which knocked us both to the ground, and all the talks of those days.
We took different ways in Tuxla Gutierrez and then I rode all alone the climb till San Cristobal de las casas. That was a killing slope!! But as always, you get to its ending and this was no different from others. Once I got to the top and after riding down a few kilometeres, I reached this town/city where I rested for another five days.
“San Cristobal de las casas” is located at 2500 meters high and has an ideal temperature. Another place that i nmarked to come back and spend a season. Coffee and good cocoa. All the amenities and services to be at ease and meet tourists, and two streets beyond, local people with which to share their day to day.
Just before leaving Mexico, I followed another detour so that I got close to “el chiflon” waterfall.
Amazing!!! the turquoise colour of its waters!! To see it fall off from such height and to be able to sleep with the sound of these water, it was the perfect farewell to so fantastic a country. A country which has presented me with so many moments and gatherings! A country where I have made friends forever!
It is a country which definitely stands out for its varied ethnicity, colourful, cuisine and above all, its humour. I love Mexican humour!!
And of course, despite its reputation, it is a safe country!
I´ll be back.