Osh has given us what so many years we had missed, a snowy and cold winter, so cold that since it snowed the 20th of december the snow hasn´t melted until today.
We were lucky skipping the crude winter, because just 5 days after we arrived here and stopped cycling the mercury of the termometer fell dramaticaly. We were afraid of getting out of the house. We didn´t want to go far fom the stove even for going to the kitchen and we took advantage of its heat to not have to leave the room that was all that remained warm.
It has been a success to stop here because of the friendly people, with always easy smile and sweet faces which have made to go to the market or to stroll around a very nice and rewarding experience.
To haven´t been able to speak almost any rusian just has quite limited the relations and, we confess, we’ve been a bit lazy to make the effort to learn it, but with the universal lenguaje by sings and a bit of humour it is not difficult to comunicate with anyone.
The fact that this special woman honer of this strange hotel which is empty in winter because of the lack of heater sistem (we are the only costumers) speaks very good english has helped much, telling a lot of the curiosities of kirgizs. In the early mornings, cooking the breakfast in the kitchen while Aitor lazy sleeps a little longer in bed, we have been knowing to each other in quiet talks and always full of laughter. She told me that in Kyrgyzstan for example (we later found also in Kazakhstan) was common and accepted to be “captured” by who would be your husband. Yes, as you read: captured.
When he likes you, riding his horse he will approach you but …. not inviting for a tea or a walk, he will “catch” you literally (and often even against your will as she experienced herself ) and will take you to their parents home, to stay there. Forced to marry him if the dealings between the families for dowry are accepted. This practice nowdays seems that is happing in the rural areas. Although it may sound unbelieveble, for them is common, for is part of their culture.
It’s funny to hear by her, the differences between Uzbeks and Kyrgyzs, or finally to realize why there are so many cow legs in the market (to make a jelly tasty custard with chunks of meat inside). They are carnivores to the core and, as their nighbors the Tajiks and Uzbeks say little bit wild.
They were and they are tough people of the highlands, who live between 2,500, and 4000 meters high taking care of the cattle bearing the harshness of the land, of isolation, of scarcity. That is the reason to have those rough manners and hard forms, while all the time you see how friendly they are under that hardness.
In the last two weeks everything has changed. The temperatures have softened a lot being now between 0 and 5 degrees most of the time during the day, making the snow to melt. Adding that the days are gradually getting longer stimulates our will to keep moving, to keep on, to continue the way which makes us to feel alive.
China visa complicated again and we had to send the passports to Spain to get them helped for our family. They just came back and still we are celebrating it because we already almost have the doors open to our next objective: Mongolia.
Bikes are about to leave the operating-room, and Dr. Aitor says, everything is in perfect health and should live a long life.
And still everything taking shape, we continue to watching thousands of photos and updating this “photo gallery” in the blog where we want to include a bit of everything we have lived and have seen. The final stretch of being so many hours glued to this screen and to get out there again, to the world, to experience it live and live with far fewer comodities but with more intensity.
When? February 20 somethings but shhhhhh …. it is a secret for our legs shshshhhhhhhhh …… if they realize that the rest and the comfort are near to finish they will complain and go to strike, sssssssshhhhhhhhhhhhhhh.